Expat Newspaper September 28-October 11 Issue

Guide to Driving in the Philippines

By Loraine Balita

Photos by Gerard Delos Santos and Nik Chaikhunpol

Are you one of those foreigners who are getting sick of taxi fares and taxi drivers who over charge you? Are you tired of dealing with your driver who cannot seem to get your directions right?

If you feel like you’re stuck in a rut, chained to your usual routine of hailing a cab to go to work or your early-morning throat exercise— trying to explain directions to your driver who apparently has a difficulty figuring out what you’re trying to say with that thick accent of yours, it could be time for you to take the wheel.

But before you jump in your car and start the engine, spare me a minute so I can introduce you to driving in my country. Drawn from almost 9 years of driving in some of the busiest and craziest roads and more than 20 years of watching the interesting albeit unwritten Philippine road rules, this comprehensive guide will take you out into the streets all while you’re glued to your seat.

Yes, you must have heard shocking stories about driving in the Philippines. From the antics of scary bus drivers to the unusual objects with wheels with whom you might have to share the road, I’m sure you have heard it all. I would have to admit that driving around here could get scary and the driving skills of Filipinos can frighten even the best F1 racers. But you should also know that there are a lot of expatriates here who, after awhile and a healthy dose of culture shock, finally got used to the streets and were able to adapt to the rules of the system.

One of them is 41-year-old Joe Serrao who has been living and driving in Zambales for 8 years. Originally from the US, Joe shares to Expat how driving here differs from driving in his home country. “Although the rules of the road in the Philippines are essentially the same as those in the States, there is still a marked difference between the two experiences,” he says. “I have also noticed that there seems to be much less "road rage" in the Philippines than in the states”.

He also noticed that here “Filipinos are used to sharing the road with tricycles, jeepneys and owner type jeeps that have a difference performance profile”. Joe, a former duty driver for the US Navy in Subic, advises expats to “slow down and remember the various types of vehicles that you are sharing the road with, from scooters to the dreaded buses”.

And just to give you an idea of the numerous vehicles and people expats like Joe would like to warn you about, I have now listed here the interesting characters you’ll meet while driving on our streets.

Watch Out for These

1. Huge vehicles getting too close for comfort

The ten-wheelers with their heavy containers and huge monstrous buses aren’t exactly the kinds of gentle giants you would want to get cozy with. I often think bus drivers are not fully aware of the size of their vehicles. The way they speed and squeeze their way through small spaces and occupy a lane and half makes me think they’re under the impression that they are driving Mini Coopers.

2. Pedestrians playing dodge car

It must really be a sport, and a fun one at that. Most drivers I talked to complain mostly about pedestrians who seemingly find it enjoyable to play ‘dodge oncoming traffic’. Just because you see an overpass doesn’t mean you can speed your way through. You will see pedestrians dodging cars, crossing the streets with the over pass right above them. Why they do that is mind boggling. But then again it could also be the weather, climbing these stairs up to the over pass in this hot humid weather could be such a drag and dodging cars for them is much more exciting.

3. Motorcycles playing bowling

You also would have to watch out for the hundreds of motorcycles traversing our streets. Their numbers have increased lately and some like playing bowling. Only that they’re the pins and I think you’re supposed to be the ball. You’d often see a swarm of motorcycles meeting you head on. I just am not sure if they really want to see how many of them you can knock over or that they think they have an invisible force field that’s supposed to repel oncoming traffic.

4. Pedicabs

Need I say more? The mere presence of these three-wheeled, plastic covered vehicles out on the streets is something to be worried about. Pedicab drivers pedal their way through traffic, squeeze their sidecars in the smallest available space between your car and that humongous bus, they can carry the bikes over islands and could appear out of nowhere. It’s amazing how some dare devils choose to ride these pedicabs everyday to go places even out on busy streets. I have experienced it once and do not have plans of trying it again soon. Although the experience could actually be fun for some, knowing that the only thing separating you from the roaring jeeps beside you is a thin plastic shade. Now isn’t that what you call adrenalin pumping? Who says you need to spend $80 to go bungee jumping. Try getting in on one of these and you’d get the same ‘oh-my-gosh-I- though- I- was- going- to- die’ kind of thrill.

5. Tour De Philippine

The world’s best known bicycle race has got nothing on this. Yes, we have that tour around here too. Watch out for cyclists who like tracing a route that passes through all available space in which they can fit their bikes. Like pedicabs, bicycles could appear out of nowhere and squeeze their way beside in front or behind you. While there are cyclists from legitimate groups in the Philippines who manage to stay IN the safe zone, there are, of course, a lot of people who jump on their bikes and manage to PEDAL their way through major thoroughfares completely oblivious to how much they’re putting their lives at risk.

6. Lane Blind Drivers

I wonder if they’re using a special kind of paint for lanes here that seem to be invisible to most drivers. You have to watch out for jeepney driver’s who switch lanes without using signals, and those who straddle lanes , opting to stay in the middle making it impossible for other cars to pass on either side. They must also be using magic paint on crosswalks because some drivers don’t seem to recognize its existence. Normally when you see those white markings on the pavement you have to let pedestrians cross because they have the right of way. Here however, you’ll see drivers speeding through these crossings not caring if there are pedestrians or not.

7. Amplified Morse Codes

You should also get yourself ready for a lot of beeping horns. Most Filipinos beep their car horns to signal that they’re coming, to make other people aware of their mood, to let the driver of the car in front of them know that they’re starting to get mad, and to actually argue with other drivers. It’s like an amplified sequence of Morse code only that you won’t be able to decipher exactly what everyone’s trying to say. You’ll get used to it eventually.

One good thing about all this though is that you wouldn’t get bored while waiting inside a parked car around here. I often make sure to park it in a spot that could afford me a nice view of the highway or a busy road. Watching jeepneys and buses go at it beats playing Tekken on my Play Station Portable. There’s always something worth watching.

I’m sure by now I’ve already painted a carnival like picture in your head, filled with bump cars of all sorts sans the rubber surrounding it, seemingly going nowhere and everywhere at the same time. While it might seem like driving in the Philippines is not for the faint of heart and foreigners who are not familiar with the rules and the Filipinos, there are actually expats like Leng Bugensperger who have learned to love driving in the Philippines.

Leng, originally from Singapore, enjoys driving here more than in any other country she has driven in. “I have driven in the U.S., Australia, Europe, Korea, Japan and Singapore….and I find driving in Manila the most enjoyable and interesting”. When she first started driving in Manila in 2004, she found the experience very daunting at first. But she, like all the others, got used to the system eventually. “I have discovered that there is actually a system to the driving etiquette here,” she shares. One good thing about driving in the Philippines for her is that in the Philippines if you run into any trouble “there will always be a kind and friendly Filipino who will be willing to take the time and trouble to help you”.

Like her, you too can get used to the system if you keep these sage advice and tips in mind

Survival Tips

1. Be very, very, very patient.

I cannot stress enough how patient you should be while driving around here. Most drivers are notorious for being aggressive. It’s a dog-eat-dog world out there; only the strongest and most aggressive will survive or in this case, get to his/her destination on time. But there is absolutely no need to compete with them. It’s best to remain calm at all times. Even when a vehicle cuts in front of you, which happens a lot around here by the way, it’s best to keep a cool head. Always remember that patience will keep you out of trouble.

2. Practice UDD (Ultra-Defensive Driving)

My personal driving style of choice is ultra-defensive driving. Yes, I just made that phrase up but it has helped me survive the streets with just minor mishaps, like that time I drove too close to a man walking by the road I thought I caught his arm with my side mirror. Other than that I have been driving safely and have not been in any major accident in any shape or form. When driving defensively you might have to get used to driving slow. And it helps to be alert while driving too. Always assume that there’s some crazy man behind the wheel, in front, beside or behind you. It helps to be a bit paranoid around here.

3. Avoid Rush Hours

Rush hours in most cities during weekdays usually start at around 5:30 and last till around 8:30 in the morning. In the afternoon the much dreaded hours start at 5:00 pm and usually last till around 7:30 pm. I suggest avoiding these hours, but if you really must be out there during rush hours get yourself ready for major traffic. During rush hours here, cars literally inch their way through streets like a herd of turtles stampeding through peanut butter. You should always leave your house early if you plan to pass through some traffic-ridden roads.

4. Check your car’s fluids and AC

Check your car’s fluids before you leave and be sure to check your air-conditioning system regularly. The worst thing that could happen to you is to be stuck in jam packed EDSA (Epifanio Delos Santos Avenue) during rush hours with a busted AC.

5. Beware of Nocturnal Violators

According to some drivers I interviewed, more traffic rules are violated at night. More drivers run red lights more go into one way streets meeting on-coming traffic head on and more pedestrians cross the streets in no pedestrian crossing areas. So you have to be alert and aware of the increased chances of driving beside nocturnal traffic violators.

Getting the License

Just like how it is for any other country, a driver’s license is needed to drive a vehicle in the Philippines. You can use your foreign driver’s license if you have only been staying here for less than ninety days. Most car rental companies will allow you to rent a car and drive it on your own even with a tourist visa but only for 90 days after your date of arrival.

After 90 days according to Ilonor Madrid, Land Transportation Office (LTO) Central License Section Chief, “you need to go through the LTO process”. This means having your foreign driver’s license converted to a Philippine Driver’s license. The LTO issues all drivers’ licenses in the Philippines.

According to Noreen Donato, also from the LTO License Section, a foreigner with a valid driver’s license can have it converted to a Philippine driver’s license without taking the written or practical exam. Check the validity of your license because if you’re holding an expired foreign driver’s license you would have to gear up to take those tests

If you do not have a foreign driver’s license you would need to apply for a Philippine driver’s license. You can check the list of LTO offices in the LTO website (www.lto.gov.ph) to see if there’s a branch near you. Also found in their site is the list of requirements and procedures for foreign driver’s license conversion and application of Philippine driver’s license for foreigners. You can also call the LTO Central Licensing Section if you need help.

It’s best to familiarize yourself first with the road rules and to check with the local government of your province or city for regulations in your area. You can also look for Philippine road rules and regulations handbooks available in bookstores. Just make sure that it’s approved by the LTO and the Department of Transportation and Communication. And last but not least –it’s essential you buy a road map!

A Taste of Kapangpangan Country Life (unedited)

Edited Version published on Expat Newspaper Nov 9- 22 Issue

Text and Photos by Loraine Balita

Thanks to my uncontrollable curiosity and short attention span I didn’t even find out who Abe was until I left the place and read the short write up. Throughout the tour and yes, while we were all supposedly listening to the guide, I was roaming around popping my head in and out of rooms, opening doors, getting lost and finding my way back behind the group. It’s hard to concentrate on the tour when you’re surrounded by interesting antiques and trinkets contained in an equally amusing farm.

Abe’s Farm located in Magalang Pampanga offers a window to the Kapangpangan country life to city dwellers and an engrossing experience to city slickers who, like me, are easily amused. It’s like a day in the national museum only here you get to experience Kapangpangan cuisine, get a massage and dip in the pool, take a hike or sleep in one of the artifacts.

Right after passing through the wooden sign that welcomed us we were given a prelude to the whole country life experience with a wood plough sans the Carabao pulling it accenting the manicured lawn. After entering the main guest house I was taken aback by the huge carabao skull hanging right above the main entrance “So that’s what happened to the carabao”, I thought to myself. Like a girl from the province feeling out of place in Makati city, I felt like an urbanite out of place in the country. Our cameras and cell phones and even we, in our jeans, looked odd amidst the rustic background.

Wooden posts and bamboo railings line the veranda that is wrapped around the entire house. Antique chairs and huge wooden tables are scattered all throughout, the rustic design extends up to the rooms and even up to the bathroom. A winding staircase made of wood leads up to the second floor with four beds divided only by curtains. Not exactly the type for honeymooners but could be perfect for a family of four or a group of friends who would like to chat untill they fall asleep. After going farther up the staircase I was led to the attic which offers visitors a real taste of country life. And when I say real I mean bamboo lining the floor and wall and no air conditioning system just windows that invite fresh air in and afford a view of the garden the lawn and the greenery outside. Another staircase leads down to the basement which is off limits to guests and is reserved for the owner’s family. After going around the main guest house we were taken out to explore the rest of this four hectare property.

It was not the pool that caught my attention but the small huts surrounding it. I was told that these are called Ulog, traditional Ifugao huts brought here from the Mt. Province. And if you think seeing these huts up close is already thrilling trying sleeping in it. Guests can rent these huts that can accommodate up to two people. A sign which states the obvious reminds guests not to smoke inside the Ifugao huts. There are three Ulogs in Abe’s farm that can be rented by guests. All with authentic artifacts attached on the sides, proof of the ways of living of the Filipinos up north. Stuck onto the sides of these huts are wooden spears with pointed metal blades, Ifugao head ornaments wrapped in feathers and weaved cloth and my favorite item—Ifugao Samsonite. These water-proof backpacks are made of woven rattan covered with extracted plant fibers that look like fur. Some call it sangi others call it pasiking but in most Ifugao regions it is commonly called bango.

Just when I thought I could finally listen to the guide a monkey stole my attention. Yes, a monkey named Dagul is kept here. The small primate seemed gentle enough so I came closer. Dagul on the other hand seemed eager to pose for my camera. Just as I was about to head back to join the group and listen we were called back to the main house to have a taste of Kapangpangan cuisine Abe’s Farm have prepared for us.

The sumptuous dishes were all good. Although the Paco Fern Salad was a bit too fresh for me, the smell and texture reminded me of the Ferns we brought to school for our Biology class. It could need some getting used to for people with a fast food trained palate, but it could be perfect for vegans and those looking for a healthy way to experience Kapangpangan cuisine.

After finishing the gastronomic treats we were off to another section of the farm. Abe’s Farm has teemed up with Nature Spa. The latter has huts located within the vicinity where you can get your massage. What makes Nature Spa in Abe’s Farm different here is the signature Kapangpangan Spa Treatments. Tumayla for example is a relaxing Kapangpangan massage reminiscent of a mother’s caress done to the melody of a Kapangpangan lullaby. Hilot on the other hand involves techniques practiced by grandmothers to cure common ailments like colds, sprains, and fever. These signature treatments are created by incorporating local massage methods done by Kapangpangans with other techniques. Guests can also stay in one of Nature Spa’s huts and avail of packages that include accommodation, meals and spa treatments.

A section of the farm can also be rented for events and occasions. If you need a place to detoxify and recharge your employees for the next team building sessions or you have always dreamt of a nature themed wedding, then Abe’s Farm could be a good option.

After getting a sample of Nature Spa’s Sese ng Ima, a traditional Kapangpangan head massage, which almost lulled me to sleep we headed back to the main house and spent the afternoon chatting over merienda. Because I was too sleepy after the massage, too full after munching on the sinfully good merienda treats and was too preoccupied with the trinkets and interesting pieces scattered all throughout the farm it was only after we left that I realized how ungrateful a guest I was. I forgot to ask who the man behind Abe’s Farm really is. It was only after I read a write up that I found out that the late artist and writer Emilio “Abe” Aguilar Cruz is the man behind this place. His artworks adorn the walls and trinkets which amazed me all through out my visit there are some of the memorabilia he collected from his travels here and abroad. And his son, the late restaurateur Lary J. Cruz of LJC Group of Restaurants, is the one who started this events village.

Beyond Chocolates and Cuckoo Clocks (Unedited Version)Edited version published on What's On Expat May-2006 Issue

Text by : Loraine Balita Photos by: Arlene Rossi

I will forever remember this country as the place which almost gave a me a heart attack.

I have never said ‘Wow’ and ‘Oh my gosh!’ as many times as when I was in Switzerland. Tourists are confronted with amazing natural beauty at every turn.

Up until my last days there, I was waiting for someone to shout ‘Cut!’, for the lights to go out and for people to start dismantling the set starting with the snow capped mountains, the perfectly mowed green grass carpet, and flower beds followed by the crystal clear lakes (swans and ducks included!).I kept asking myself if it was just a movie and everything was just put there on display, because it all were too beautiful to be true and too perfect to be real.

Being in Switzerland is being in the middle of everywhere. Landlocked in the heart of Europe, it is only a few minutes away from Germany in the North, Austria in the East, Italy in the South and France in the South West.

It has four national languages: German, French, Italian and Romansh, which explains the long translations of ingredients and instructions at the back of chocolate bars and Swiss watch manuals.

Aside from army knives, cuckoo clocks and their uncanny ability to organize everything, they also boast of their excellent and reliable transport system. With trains, trams, boats and buses arriving on time. Hence you’d often see a marathon of women in four inch heels, desperately dashing towards the station, because trains and buses almost always leave on time. Not even Helen of Troy, who’s face launched a thousand ships could make a train here wait.

The Swiss Youth pass sold at major train stations enabled me to go around and discover what treasures this quaint little country has to offer, starting with its most popular resort.

St. Moritz : Top Of The World

The posh St. Moritz true to its reputation is a leisure tourist’s haven located on the Southern side of the Alps. Being in the middle of the Engandine region, skiers have access to local ski areas where snow is guaranteed. Other activities offered here include snowboarding, Sailing, Windsurfing, tennis, horseback riding, golf and even paragliding.

Not being a fan of any of these I went on to do what I consider is my favorite sport, the only exhausting and time consuming activity most girls can do—window shopping.

The town has some if not all of the most popular and expensive shops in the world. No wonder everybody walking down the street wore bumble bee-eye-sized sunglasses. Not only were these used to shield the eyes from sunrays reflected by the snow, it also serves its purpose of shielding the eyes from the blinding sparkle of rocks, gems and jewels, laid out on display inside glass windows in shops along the streets.

The stores lining the foot of the mountain made the place look absolutely surreal giving it an overall dreamy atmosphere. People from all over the globe, who’s got a little more to shell out, flock this place to relax and unwind.

From the laid back atmosphere of this ski resort, I moved on to see the more upbeat, busy, coffee frenzied town up North.

Zurich : World’s Banking Capital

With coffee shops at almost every corner, university students with bulging backpacks, trudging the city with their laptops, and men in business suits glued to their cell phones, swinging leather briefcases, you’ll know what this city is all about.

This is no place to spatter sun tan lotion and frolic under the sun. With its fast paced atmosphere, this city clearly epitomizes the Swiss’ passion for neatness, precision, punctuality, and hard work.

But despite the impression of Zurich being a city so prim and busy, I have discovered quiet the opposite.

It is the city where people would happily volunteer to take your picture, when they notice that you’ve been desperately trying to take a shot of your face with the background. It is where people would stop pedalling their bicycles to help you find your way back when they notice that you’ve been staring at the city map upside down. And it is the city where I met a friend who took some time off from school to show me around.

The best way to tour Zurich is on foot, which would give you ample time to marvel at the architectural treasures found within the city, starting with the Grossmunster church . Its twin towers now serve as the most recognizable landmark in modern Zurich. Devoid of its original embellishments and interior grandeur it still holds historical and architectural significance. It was founded by Charlemagne in the ninth century and it is where Ulrich Zwingli initiated reformation in Switzerland.

“You have clocks everywhere!” I exclaimed, as we went pass the fifth clock I’ve seen that day. The next one becoming the sixth, is Europe’s biggest clock face situated atop the St. Peter’s church tower.

Right across the Grossmunster is the Fraumunster church founded in 853. It is made popular by its magnificent stained glass windows by Marc Chagall designed in 1970.

My tour ended with a long walk along Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s main shopping street. It is famous for very high –end shopping at designer boutiques. Hence it is one of the world’s most expensive shopping streets.

From the German speaking part of Switzerland up North, I went down the next day to the South West, a few mountains away from France, where French is spoken.

Montreux : Chateau De Chillon

After going around the famous Olympic museum in Lusanne, I grabbed a copy of the ship route map from the tourist office and hopped on board one of those little ships cruising around Lake Geneva. With absolutely no idea of where to go, I decided to just enjoy the breeze and calm ripples of the water as the ship cruised its way towards its destination.

“This has got to be fake!” I continuously told myself when the boat approached the next stop in Montreux. A medieval castle built on an islet, facing a spectacular view ushered me to get off.

Snow capped mountains lined the other side of the lake with its feet gently dipped in the waters. Sunrays peeked from the mountain sides, caressing the surface of the lake making the water sparkle. Add that to the already astonishing view of Chateaux De Chillon (Castle of Chillon) makes a seemingly fake, right out of the postcard, scene that would make anybody want to rub their eyes in disbelief.

This, I thought would make the greatest reason to stay single, I could now say that I fell in love with a castle in Montreux. And just like discovering substance behind a pretty face, I discovered the historical significance of this place.

The rock upon which the castle stands is said to have been occupied since the Bronze age. Nobody knows when the first medieval walls were built, but it was partly enlarged from the 11^th to the 13^th century.

Francois Bonivard was held prisoner by the Duke of Savoy in its chilly castle prison. The earlier was a lay official at St. Victor’s priory in Geneva and was shackled here for four years because he was in favour of the reformation.

Bonivard was immortalised in the poem “ Prisoner of Chillon” . It was written in the 19^th century by Lord Byron who carved his name on the third pillar in the castle prison. Other 19^th century poets and authors enchanted by this castle include Shelley, Victor Hugo, Hans Christian Andersen, Flaubert, Mark Twain, and Charles Dickens.

The huge chambers and courtyards are filled with medieval finds and centuries old artefacts. Knight’s armours, swords, silver spoon, plates, treasure chests and paintings stood witness to the lifestyle of the Dukes and Counts who lived here.

“Now this explains why royal duchesses and princesses looked so slim” I joked as me and a group of tourists went up the endless staircase leading up to chambers and towers. Imagine climbing up these staircases everyday in those bulky long dresses, talk about exercise.

After days of going from North to South and East to West I decided to settle midway and discover the country’s capital.

Bern : Switzerland’s Capital- UNESCO World Heritage Site

Happily situated where German speaking Switzerland meets French, Bern is a melting pot of cultures and people. Going around the city, I discovered that here, there is also a mix of the old and the new.

Kids seemingly lost in time, in their low waist pants, I-pods and piercings are back dropped by 15^th century structures inside Bern’s old city.

The perfectly preserved limestone edifices, medieval arcades, and Rennaisance fountains convinced UNESCO (United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization) to deem Bern a World Heritage Site, placing it among the ranks of Florence and the Taj Mahal. The nation’s capital is also home for the bundeshaus or the Swiss House of Parliament.

I must have spent half an hour staring at the St. Vincent Cathedral in awe. This gothic structure towers high above the rooftops in Bern. Narrow, winding stairs, which I thought was also never ending, lead me up the top of the tower where I had a perfect view of the entire city.

Wanting to satisfy the kid in me, I ran off to the Bern bear pits where European brown bears are kept. Here, for 3 Swiss francs (aprox. $2.5) you can feed these lazy, brown, fur balls whose only job is to be cute.

After running around in cities, I decided to get a glimpse of Switzerland’s Italian speaking part in the South East.

Lugano: Dolce Vita

Much of Lugano’s success as a centre of tourism can be attributed to its mild climate, moderated by the presence of lakes with a high proportion of sunny days. It borders Italy which is only a few minutes away by car. This lake-side city with its laid back atmosphere, intricately-adorned structures, and sunny climate, clearly has an Italian flavour.

Lugano offers an oasis of peace and beauty for people looking for a place to relax, away from the bustling cities and busy streets elsewhere. This is where people spend their hard earned cash for a ticket to indulgence.

Cafes, shops and restaurants line the lake side where outdoor tables and chairs invite tourists to soak up in the gentle heat of the sun. Unspoiled, lake side villages lay nestled at the foot of the mountain.

After hours of window shopping along Lugano’s arcades, I decided to take a long soothing walk by the lake side.

These were all too much for me. The colourful and sweet smelling flowers lining the walk, the soft green grass, the warm, calming wind brushing against my face, almost lulled me to sleep. And after only a few minutes of walking I finally gave in. I sat amidst the tranquil greens of the lake side park, soaking in the relaxing scent of the flowers. Resisting the urge to lie on my back, I told myself what this place would prompt everybody to say ; This is dolce vita (sweet life)!

After weeks of going around this blessed little country, my fun trip came to an end. Dragging myself lazily to the airport in Zurich, I took a last glimpse of the place. Just before boarding the plane, I smiled at one of the airport staffs, and whispered “You have absolutely no idea how lucky you are to be living in a place like this!”

***

Hackwriters.com The International Writers Magazine- May 2007
http://www.hackwriters.com/Balita.htm


Beijing and My Pseudo Sign Language Skills
• Anna Loraine Balita
Who says you can’t survive in a country where you don’t speak, read and understand the language? I did, for one whole week! Being an Asian in Beijing was not like going to a slumber party at the neighbor’s.


Just as how it is for any other foreigner, the Chinese characters on street signs all looked like chopsticks glued together to me. I too entered through exits and had to learn the art of pseudo sign language, pin pointing (facial expressions included) my way through a McDonalds meal. It was here, in Beijing where I learned to order food without uttering a single word.

Much has been written and told about the dynasties, the imperial palaces, and the vast history of this culturally gifted city. But not even the longest running Jackie Chan and Bruce Lee Kung Fu movies will be enough to let one truly experience the richness of Beijing’s heritage. There is nothing like seeing the intricate details of historic structures that movie cameras fail to put on film. And nothing beats walking along the same bricks and fortresses that the emperors and empresses once walked on.


My cultural journey started in the country’s most famous landmark. A mammoth structure spanning thousands of meters.


What’s so Great About the Great Wall?


This must have been the reason why I shed so many pounds during my stay in Beijing. The long walk from the Badaling gate section of the Great Wall up to the roller coaster-looking cable cars along some steep brick-covered floors almost made me give up and just wait in the shuttle. I was so sure that I was the youngest in the tour group but I was always left behind catching my breath, running and calling on them to wait up.

Metal creaks echoed around the dark cave-like structure that our seemingly theme-park-inspired cable car passed through, as it slowly inched its way up the steep wall. The excitement came to a halt upon reaching the top. We were all taken aback, silenced by the mammoth structure lining the mountain ranges like stacks of giant dominoes made of age-old bricks and stones. “Everything that the sun touches and your eyes can gaze upon here” I finally uttered while extending my hand to the right, “is not mine.” I continued in an effort to break the ice.


The Badaling section, we were told, was the earliest section to be opened to tourists among all the parts of the Great Wall. 130 Million tourists including 370 foreign leaders and famous people have come to climb this ancient military defense project used to protect the Juyongguan Pass. The watch towers sitting proudly atop the mountains provided tourists their well deserved shade after a few meters or so of walking along the brick-lined walls. “This must be the worlds most pictured wall”, I told myself as I watched tourists snap and pose behind, beside and all around the brick structure.


Descending was much easier as gravity pulled what’s left of my weight and my backpack down the Great Wall. Going back to the shuttle we eagerly showed each other trinkets that we bough on our way back. What ever happened to the legendary emperors who ruled this land hundreds of years ago? That question brought me to my next destination.


Ming Tomb’s Quality Control


Just like the Egyptian Pharaohs, the Chinese emperors’ belief in the afterlife pushed them to build magnificent tombs that now house their corpses and treasures. During the reign of the Ming Dyanasty, 13 emperors built palatial buildings and complexes in the Northwestern Suburbs of Beijing. These complexes were later called Ming Tombs. It is the burial site of 13 out of 17 emperors of the Ming Dynasty.


The day started with raised eyebrows from the wives in my tour group who gave their husbands pierced looks, after we were told that not only the empresses were buried here. A separate site was also reserved for the emperors’ concubines. The intricately ornamented structures house treasures such as gowns, costumes, weapons and coins displayed inside glass casings. These stand witness to how China’s legendary people lived on Earth.


Trailing behind the group I couldn’t help but notice the Chinese characters carved on the old bricks. “What are those Chinese characters for?” I curiously asked the guide. What he told us silenced the noisy crowd. These, we were told, are names and the locations of the people who made the bricks. This made it easier for the emperor to locate the makers who were called and punished, for every bricks that were poorly made. A form of quality control in the old times that proved effective considering how much these structures have withstood the tests of time. A maker would undoubtedly pour time and effort in every single brick if his life depended on it.


After shopping for silk cloths, plates and trinkets, the black and white stuffed toys displayed in stores reminded me of why I wanted to see Beijing so much in the first place.



Beijing Zoo: Happy Feet Has Got Nothing on Me


“Where can I see a panda?” I smilingly asked people around the hotel. I spent my last days in Beijing embarrassing myself, asking people where I can see those cute little black and white furry animals. I finally grab a hold of a map with the address of the nearest zoo and bugged the receptionist to write it down for me in Chinese characters.


I excitedly ran to the entrance, map in hand in search of my second most favourite animal. A clear glass separated tourists from the pandas. Stuffed toys lined the stores right beside the cage. I honestly couldn’t tell the difference because the panda’s looked like giant stuffed toys moving lazily around.


The Beijing zoo is home to 7,000 creatures of 600 different species including the giant panda, red-crowned crane and Pere David's deer-all unique to China. My Happy Feet hysteria then pulled me inside the part of the zoo where penguins are kept. Swimming around the waters, greeting and happily entertaining tourists behind the glass-covered aquarium, these famous little creatures were also a sight to see.


I spent grueling hours hailing a cab to get back to the hotel. My pseudo sign language skills finally got me a deal with a nice cab driver who smilingly drove me back. I was brought around the site where constructions for the 2008 Olympics are being made. One can just smell the excitement in the air as the locals anticipate the flocking of tourists from all parts of the globe.


Going around the busy streets of this city, covered from head to toe with only my eyes and frozen nose poking out the hood of my heavily stuffed jacket, I realized that Beijing at first glance is just like any Asian city catching up with the modern times. But not until I started observing details that it finally dawned to me. There’s more to Beijing than just the traffic jams, shopping frenzies, and sub-ways packed with chinky-eyed people. It is a city so willing to open up to the world and to modernity but is held humbly to the ground by its densely rich cultural heritage.


© A Balita May 10 2007 Anna Loraine Balita is a 23 year-old freelance writer taking up her masters in Applied Media Studies from De La Salle University in Manila.Online Portfolio: http://lorainebalita.blogspot.com/

Hackwriters.com
The International Writers Magazine- May 2006
http://www.hackwriters.com/Geneva4.htm

What Lies Beyond A Bar Of Chocolate
• Loraine BalitaThis, I thought would give me the perfect reason to stay single...'


Staring at a picture of the Swiss Alps behind a chocolate bar, I wondered how the real thing would look like. I imagined a real life Willie Wonka factory, with forests, meadows, and prairies abound with chocolate. Just before drooling on my seat, and chewing on the cabin crew’s arm, she called my attention and asked me to fasten my seatbelt, for we were about to land in Switzerland.

After weeks of going around this country, I discovered what really lies behind a bar of Swiss chocolate. It wasn’t Wonka’s factory alright, but it was so much better than that.


Montreux : Chateau De Chillon

"Chillon! thy prison is a holy place,And thy sad floor an altar - for t'was trod,Until his very steps have left a traceWorn, as if thy cold pavement were a sod,By Bonnivard! May none those marks efface!For they appeal from tyrrany to God" ---Lord Byron

“This has got to be fake!”, I continuously told myself when the cruise ship approached Montreux. A medieval castle built on an islet facing a spectacular view ushered me to get off.Snow topped mountains lined the other side of the lake, with its feet gently dipped in the waters. Sunlight peeked at the sides of the mountain, caressing the surface of the lake, making the water sparkle. Add that to the already astonishing view of the Chateau de Chillon (Castle of Chillon), makes a seemingly fake scene that would make anybody rub their eyes in disbelief.

This, I thought would give me the perfect reason to stay single, I could well say that I fell in love with a castle in Montreux. And just like discovering substance behind a pretty face, I discovered the historical significance of this place.
This castle was immortalized by the famous poet Lord Byron in his poem “Prisoner of Chillon”. Going down the chilly castle prison with its high ceiling and rocky floor, I found the place as creepy as it was interesting. Carved on the third pillar is Lord Byron’s name, who was inspired to write about Francois Bonivard’s ordeal. Because the latter was in favor of the reformation, he was kept shackled here for four long years during the 16th century by the Duke of Savoy. If being tied down to a wooden post by a heavy metal chain is not enough torture, the chilly atmosphere, cold stone floor and trifle amount of sunlight pouring in through only the thin loopholes on the walls of the dungeon, would have driven the prisoners then, half insane.

Climbing a few steps up the stairs brought me to a totally different scene. Chambers filled with medieval treasures stood witness to the lifestyle of the dukes and counts who lived here. Treasure chests, knight’s armors, swords and paintings adorn the halls and courtyards. “Now this explains why royal duchesses and princesses looked so slim! No elevators!”, I joked as I and a group of other tourists went up the endless plights of stairs, leading to the chambers and towers. Imagine climbing up these staircases everyday in those bulky, heavily embroidered dresses. Talk about exercise.

Medieval Murten

From a medieval castle to a medieval little town in Switzerland, I just couldn’t get enough of the interesting lives of Princesses, Knights and Dukes. The town of Murten has kept its charm and appeal with perfectly preserved towers, walls, streets, arcades and walkways that would surround any tourist who would want to walk back in time. You can almost see knights in horses passing by who would come to any damsel’s rescue. Snap back to reality and you’d see them in motorcycles, BMW's and Audis screeching along the age old bricks used in the streets.

Wondering just how strong the brick fortresses are, I kicked the wall just beside the tower clock. After breaking a French pedicured toenail, I realized just how stupid I was expecting the structure to crumble right before my feet. If these have been here since the medieval times, it could have well withstood even the strongest typhoon, snow storm and earthquake since those times. Silly me, thinking I was Goliath who could kick this edifices right off of their feet.And then

I wondered what these structures are made of, and why can’t we, the ultra intelligent, cyber people of the modern times build structures as strong as these? With all the resources and technology right at our disposal, equipment we can command with our every whim, still we make buildings out of pancakes with only syrup holding it together. Come tsunamis, earthquakes and typhoons these modern buildings would crumble to pieces.

After a failed attempt to read the bus route and directions in French and German and getting lost in the process of going back to the train station, I finally sat on the cozy train. In front of me was a man reading a newspaper with a red adverstisment on the back about a car show in Geneva. I then remembered a ticket given to me by my brother as a gift. Desperately searching through my backpack, I finally reached the bottom and was able to grab a hold of the red ticket for the Car show. Pulling it out of my bag, stuff falling out, I held it up and told the conductor smilingly that I’m off to Geneva.

76th Annual Geneva Motor Show March 2006

Packed with car aficionados running around like kids in a candy store, I barely was able to squeeze inside the venue. Feeling like a midget amidst a crowd of tall people drooling over the cars on display, I decided to join in the frenzy.

From the big muscle cars to the cute minis, they had everything on display there. Who wouldn’t want to drive them all? If these were pocket sized, I would have brought one home.The Ferrari’s stood out, as always, as well as the Lamborghinis and the uniquely designed model cars. Two entire floors were half filled with cars and half with ecstatic people, whose eyes were almost popping out.

Needless to say, I ended that day with a blast, thankful that I sat in front of the guy with the newspaper.And so my days in Switzerland ended. I would never look at a Swiss chocolate bar the same way again. Because beyond the chocolate bars, army knives and cuckoo clocks, is a country filled with historical treasures, breathtaking views, exciting events, and people with the uncanny ability to organize everything and a passion for neatness, precision, punctuality, and hard work

© Anna Lorraine Balita - May 2006pinkraine18@yahoo.com